For 17.99$ you will get a light 3 inch frame designed in the spirit of Toothpick, and to be honnest the only one with a such awesome design.
In this review I will give you all details about this frame, a step by step build guide and what I think about this frame.
First it is not a unibody frame and that’s pretty cool, because most of the toothpick or light 3inch frame are unibody and super annoying if you break something.
In the kit that you will get, everything is provided except the canopy, so don’t need to get extra stuff. All you need to add is the FC, the VTX, the motors, the camera and your receiver.
The carbon is 2.5mm for the arms, 1.5mm for the lower and top plate, and according to Kabab he used “T700 carbon in 0.5mm laminate thickness (thinner is better, typical is 1.5mm)“. And to be honnest it is pretty strong, each arm individually or the whole build.
The build is around 11g (no canopy inside) and the format of the FC is only for whoop size (so 25×25) but really it is not a problem now with all the choice available and the reliability of such FC.
Each arms is maintened by a screw and steel nuts between the lower and top plate (this plate will be used later with the rubber band to hold your LIPO) and a simple TPU arm lock piece in the center will maintain the 4 arms together.
Moreover each arm supports the 9mm hole mounting for motors, so basically all standard 11XX/12XX/13XX.
Ok so the first step is to place each arm correctly on the lower plate to see how it will be. You can even insert the TPU arm lock between the arms to see how it looks.
You have multiple position for the arms but I assume that how I put them is correct and seems to protect more the motors in case of a frontal shock.
The TPU arm lock must fit in force in the top plate, do not hesitate to force a lot !!
Add the screws for each arms and press fit with the top and the tpu piece.
Finish to secure the build with the nuts to be sure that everything is locked at this point.
You can now add the longer screws and secure them too with the provided nuts.
Tadaaaa !! Your build is now finished and you can start to add the electronics parts and motors. Add the rubber band at the bottom by using this kind of hook. Please note that the LIPO will be put horizontaly, something different that you could find in other frames (according to Kabab it is more efficient in some cases).
Now you will have different choice but here mine:
- The FC is the NamelessFC 12A, the toothpick version
- RCinmotor 1204 5000kv, but the one from Kabab are good too or the 1303 from AMAX (but these motors are more fragile)
- The diamond VTX is to have good record of the flight and works 25/200mw output power
- The Foxeer Predator Nano 4
- HQProp T3x2 or the Gemfan 3016×3, or the Gemfan 3018×2
Start to add your motors.
Continue with the FC, and solder to it everything you will need.
Add the VTX/Camera and assemble everything before putting the canopy to secure all elements.
You will have different option for the canopy that you could buy directly. If you are using a caddx EOS 2 or any runcam nano, the best one will be the canopy for the eachine twig.
If you are using the foxeer like me it doesn’t fit so a good one to protect correctly the FC and the VTX (and the camera but a little bit too short) is the TPU one from David Cledon.
So how is this frame ? Well it is really the best one if you are looking for HARD ripping. It is strong, easy to maintain, change an arm and supports most of common hardware. The carbon used by Kabab is really strong, and globally the price of the kit is really cheap ! Take some spare arms just in case !
The center of gravity is well positionned and the FC will not have too much too work in this case which will give you a really good flight too.